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He helped incubate the culture of hype that began with streetwear and sneakers and has now become the dominant ethos of luxury. “Still surreal that it’s my day job to close the loop.”Ītop Louis Vuitton, he suddenly became the template for a generation of young designers, stylists and fashion dreamers who came up in the Abloh mold, an astonishing victory. Hip-hop had long ago “knighted” luxury, he said in a recent text exchange with this reporter. He understood that hip-hop was luxurious long before LVMH came calling. In Louis Vuitton stores right now, for example, there is a stunning pattern-quilted leather jacket inspired by the ones made by the Detroit store Al Wissam that were a hip-hop staple at the end of the 1990s into the early aughts. Abloh’s contributions were a product of immersion. In recent years, plenty of high-fashion companies have attempted to incorporate hip-hop language or swagger or silhouettes into their collections, but those conversations have generally felt strained, clearly the product of observation. Look around at the way young men now think about clothes, design and music, and the ways in which those pursuits all intersect: It’s hard not to see Abloh everywhere.
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His mind was constantly churning, and his solution was to build an archive in real time, for everyone to absorb. The community of ideas doesn’t meet in private, he knew it was fortified by exposure to sunlight and scrutiny.
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What he was doing wasn’t flaunting his ubiquity and success, but rather offering up the blueprint for how to replicate it. Seemingly no one posted more than he did - a couple dozen images on his story, easily, consisting of new designs, new music, screen grabs of conversations, fit pics posted by the super-famous, fit pics posted by the unknown. There were the seemingly endless collaborations, with brands as disparate as Nike, Ikea, Evian, Rimowa, Vitra, Chrome Hearts and more.Īnd perhaps just as important, there were his daily Instagram missives. There were the multiple annual collections of Louis Vuitton, where he was the artistic director of men’s wear, and Off-White, his own label, which he’d founded while still in the orbit of Kanye West.
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In recent years, it could often appear as if there were several Virgil Ablohs, all working at the same time.